A Behind-the-Scenes Look at How I Choose diamonds for my customers
Choosing the right diamond can feel overwhelming, especially with so many factors to weigh: cut, colour, clarity, carat weight, and certification. To help simplify the process, I’d like to share how I approach selecting diamonds for my clients, using two pear-shaped stones I’m currently reviewing as examples.
Start with the Cut
Regardless of the diamond shape, I always start with the cut.
A well-cut diamond is non-negotiable, I simply won’t compromise on it. Cut determines how well a diamond reflects light, and that’s what your eye naturally notices. Sparkle and scintillation come from how the stone is shaped and faceted to return light to the viewer.
Once I’ve assessed the cut, I look at the physical dimensions (not just the carat weight), as these play a key role in how large the diamond appears. A stone with smaller dimensions can actually weigh more, so it’s important not to rely on carat weight alone.
Next is clarity. I aim to find the cleanest stones possible, as not all clarity grades are equal.
For example, two VS2 stones can look very different, it’s all about the position of the inclusions. When inclusions are in less visible areas, the stone can look as clean as a VS1, offering better value without the higher price tag.
Proportions matter greatly with fancy shapes (any diamond shape other than round is referred to as a fancy). What’s considered attractive can be subjective, but there are some fundamental principles that make a well-proportioned fancy shape really stand out.
Finally, there’s colour. This is an area where many clients can confidently compromise and save. The difference between a D and an F, for instance, is very subtle, often indistinguishable unless viewed side by side, but the price difference can be significant.
Top Tip: Find an off-weight diamond
A premium is paid for diamonds with exact weights — 1.00ct or 1.50ct, for example.
To save money, look for a 0.98ct or a 1.52ct. The dimensions are the same, but they cost a little less.
Comparing Two Beautiful PEAR shapes
Here are two pear-shaped diamonds I’m currently reviewing. Spoiler alert: they’re virtually the same price.
💎 Stone One: 3.01 Carats
Colour Grade: I
Clarity & Proportions: Excellent
Dimensions: The larger of the two
Cut: Beautifully executed
Certificate: HRD Antwerp
This stone has a soft, warm glow due to its I colour grade. It’s clean, well-proportioned, and beautifully cut. One thing I really appreciate about HRD-certified diamonds is the value, they’re often priced more favourably than GIA stones, though they can be harder to source. I regularly look out for HRD-graded options for my clients for this reason.
💎 Stone Two: 2.50 Carats
Colour Grade: F
Clarity & Proportions: Also excellent
Dimensions: Just 1mm shorter than Stone One
Cut: Beautifully executed
Certificate: GIA (Gemmological Institute of America)
This diamond appears whiter and more brilliant thanks to its higher colour grade and precise cut. GIA is regarded as the global gold standard in diamond grading, and that reputation comes with a slight premium. For many clients, that added reassurance is worth the extra investment.
Understanding Diamond Certificates
Both HRD and GIA are highly respected grading laboratories and I trust them both. GIA is internationally recognised and widely considered the benchmark, which contributes to its premium pricing and they grade a large volume of diamonds globally.
HRD, based in Antwerp, provides grading that is equally detailed and consistent. These diamonds can offer excellent value, although there are fewer to choose from due to a lower volume of diamonds graded.
Seeing is Believing: Diamond Videos
I am often importing diamonds or my customers which necessitates videos of the stones. When I send clients diamond videos, I always recommend taking a moment to explore them thoroughly. High-definition 360° footage allows you to rotate the diamond and view it from every angle.
Tip: Let the video load fully. Once it’s ready, hover your mouse over it to control the spin, it’s the next best thing to viewing the stone in person.
Final Thoughts
If you’re in the market for a diamond, you don’t need to become an expert overnight, that’s what I’m here for. I’ll guide you through the process, help you understand the key choices, and ensure you find a diamond that offers exceptional beauty and value.
If you’d like to view the stones mentioned above or have any questions, feel free to get in touch. I’m always happy to help and provide options tailored just for you.